The Fastest and Easiest Way to Get From San Juan, Puerto Rico to Brantford, Canada! 

With only four days and a short plane ride standing between me and my fishing trip weekend bachelor party, I was a happy fellow.  I had finished my last day of work after being on a project in San Juan, Puerto Rico for four weeks and I was ready to get home.

My flight back to Canada was leaving San Juan, Puerto Rico at 11:00 am on Tuesday, Sept. 11. Yep, that's right, Sept 11. So I left my apartment at 8:00 in the morning and dropped off my rental car. The guy there took the car back then we jumped in the courtesy van for the airport. On the way we were listening to a Spanish radio station and they were talking about an airplane which had crashed into a tower in New York. Then they said that a second plane had crashed into another tower which obviously sounded a bit suspicious. I arrived at the airport and checked in as normal. Then I went through to the American Airlines Admiral's Club to check out what was happening on CNN. Just as I sat down to watch I saw the first of the towers collapse in a mushroom of black smoke then a while later the second one collapsed. At this point all the flights to the US were cancelled. My flight was going back to Dom Rep where I was going to spend the night then leave for Toronto via Miami on Wednesday morning. The lady at the reception counter assured me that the international flights were still flying.  Before long they announced that all flights were cancelled and the airport was closing and everybody had to go and collect their bags and leave. Oh oh. Not looking good. So I went down to get my checked bags and they all appeared...except for the one containing all my clothes. So I searched the airport for about two hours trying to find the bastard but it never turned up which actually later turned out to be a blessing in disguise.

So I picked up my remaining bags, one of which contained about 40 pounds worth of Ana's shoes, and left the airport and took a taxi to a hotel so I could make some calls and try to figure out what to do. I first called Ana to let her know I was okay then we both started checking into every possible airline and cruise ship but there was nothing leaving from Puerto Rico except the ferry which runs to Dominican Republic.  As well, at the time there were still flights arriving to Canada via Cuba so that was enough to put together a plan.  Ana had the girl in Shell in Santo Domingo buy me a ticket for Dom Rep - Havana, Cuba - Toronto. Yeah, a plan!!  So I stayed overnight in San Juan then the next day I took a taxi to the bus station, which was located in the middle of a very dodgy looking neighbourhood.  The bus eventually left from there and drove three hours to the west coast of Puerto Rico where the overnight ferry leaves from. I bought a ticket for the ferry and boarded without problems. The ferry experience was probably the highlight of the trip as I had my own little cabin and bed and was able to enjoy some cold Presidentes in the huge bar which was onboard.  I arrived in Santo Domingo the following morning (Thursday) at 8:00. I then took a taxi to the Shell office and picked up the airline tickets as well as stopping by a friend's apartment and picking up another heavy bag which we had left there before going to Puerto Rico. We then raced out to the airport and I checked in for the flight to Cuba which was on time. The airport in Santo Domingo was practically deserted as there were almost no flights coming or going.  Maybe this was an omen.

We arrived in Havana on time and everything was looking good until they took all the transfer passengers to a special area to wait for further instructions. Oh oh.  That doesn't sound good.   I soon found out that the connecting flights to Toronto had been cancelled and there were no more flights that night. Shit. So I went to the accommodation counter and made a reservation at a government hotel in Havana. The airline people told me to be at the airport the next day before noon to try and get on another flight. About then I figured it was about time to play the "wedding card" so I told them my wedding was Saturday and they somehow had to get me home.  Sure, it was a little lie, but times like this call for drastic measures.  After telling my sob story I left and bought a telephone card so I could call Ana and tell her what was happening. When I finally figured out how the phones worked I did manage to get through to Ana which was a relief. But as I was talking to her the bag which I had picked up in Santo Domingo sort of fell off the top of my pile of luggage to the floor and made a crashing sound. Oh oh, that didn't sound good.  I then saw some brown liquid leaking out and was overcome with the smell of rum. I had forgotten that we had put a 60 ounce bottle of rum in there which had just broken and soaked all my stuff. At that point, frustration began to set in.  I spend the next hour in the bathroom emptying out the bag, throwing the ruined things out, picking out shards of glass, and trying to wash up whatever was salvageable. The whole time this little Cuban washroom attendant was listening to me and was clearly intrigued to be learning so many new English obscenities.  When that mess was finally cleaned and I was stinking of alcohol I took a taxi into Havana and found the hotel and immediately sought beer and cigars to try and soothe my frazzled nerves. The hotel was a total dump and it seemed that at any moment the building could quite easily collapse and put me out of my misery. Unfortunately, it stayed standing.

I left the hotel as soon as possible on my hunt for tobacco and cerveza.  I bought a cigar from a shop, lit it up, found a nice patch of pavement, then started puffing away and thinking of where I would go and consume some beer.  Just then a Cuban guy passed by and started talking to me.  After a few minutes he still hadn't tried to con any money off me so I took him for a decent dude and asked him to go for a beer.  He took me to a locals bar and I started buying us  ridiculously cheap rounds of Cristal (Cuban beer). But after four bottles he said he had to quit because he had a problem with one of his organs (we were talking in Spanish and I didn't know the word he was saying but it must have been spleen or liver perhaps). Once we left the place and we got to an empty part of the street and he pulled up his shirt to show me. He had a plastic bag covering a pink pulsing organ which was hanging out of his side. He said that he had been hit by a car and for some reason they had to remove the organ from inside his body and he had to protect it with these medical plastic bags. Pretty weird, but after four Cristals maybe my eyes were starting to play tricks on me.  I bid him adieu and went back to the seedy hotel and fell asleep in about half a second.

I got up the next morning (Friday), ate a disgusting breakfast of dry bread and super sugary juice.  I was sitting across from this prostitute and her fat German boyfriend who I reckon had a bad case of AIDS judging from the sores all over his body. Euwww.  I didn't stay for a second cup of rank coffee.

I packed my things and took a taxi to the airport, all the while thinking there was a good chance I would be back home in Canada in mere hours.  What a fool!  When I arrived at the airport I found out that the 15:00 flight to Toronto had been cancelled but there was still a chance the 18:00 flight to Montreal would go. I begged one of the airline employees to help get me on that flight and she did help me after I told her that my wedding was the next day. There was that little lie again, but I was getting dangerously close to missing my bachelor party!!  How could I miss my bachelor party?? Especially since it involved such a motley crew of hard boozing family and friends doing all sorts of damage to their livers and digestive systems in my name?

Well, the 18:00 flight didn't go which made me wonder if I would ever get out of there. I couldn't bear spending another night in a seedy government hotel so I managed to contact the owners of this bed and breakfast place And and I stayed at once before. I took a taxi to their place and was very happy to be somewhere familiar. She even washed my filthy clothes for me which I was desperate for since the only clothes I had was my emergency stock which I always have in my carry-on bag.  But they were not just dirty, they were still reeking of the rum that they had been soaked in.  Once all my clothes were in the wash I realised this was the first night of my bachelor party weekend so I put on a pair of swimming trunks and one of Ana's shirts and went out for dinner by myself to celebrate, looking extra gay in the process!  I found a restaurant nearby and laced into an extra large platter of rice, beans and chicken then followed it up with a couple beers and a cigar.  I tried not to think what the Olson boys were getting up to that night...

Well, next crappy day, same routine.  I got up, rounded up my freshly washed, though not quite fully dried clothes, and took a taxi to the airport around 6:00 in the morning. This was Saturday and there was still a chance that I could make it back for one day of the fishing trip. Of course when I arrived at the airport I found out that my flight was cancelled yet again and there was no hope at all of anything leaving that day. AAAARRGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!! Desperation set in and I was running around the airport trying to find a flight anywhere as I couldn't take being stranded in Cuba any longer. I found out that there was a flight going to Nassau, Bahamas that afternoon so I bought a ticket and decided I would have better chances from there. Besides, even if I couldn't get to the States from there at least I could go to Hammerheads and get completely shitfaced on Kalik which would be a decent bachelor party consolation prize!

The flight actually left on time and arrived in Nassau airport which was a total mess and full of angry, nasty people trying to get back to the States. Once I got there I explained my pathetic situation to a guy at the first class counter and the great man gave me a standby ticket on a flight to Miami that afternoon!! It helped that he remembered me from all the flights I used to take from Bahamas the year before.  After that I called my good Bahamian friend Ruthie and she picked me up and we went for a delicious meal of grouper fingers and conch salad at Traveler's Rest. I also succeeded in downing about four Kaliks in the space of thirty minutes which was not a bad effort, though well off my peak. The only reason I didn't drink more was that I could not risk getting kicked off the plane for being drunk. On the way back to the airport we stopped and picked up a crate of Kalik which we somehow managed to cram into the remaining space in the bags.  Ana later mentioned that she was missing a couple pairs of shoes but I didn't know anything about that.

I checked in and proceeded to US immigration where they made me completely empty my spring loaded bags after not liking my answer to "Where are you coming from?" which went something like "Cuba, but I didn't mean to go there, I'm really coming from Puerto Rico but I had pass through Dominican Republic to pick up a bag...". At this point I didn't care - I had a ticket in my hand that was going to the USA, a nice Kalik buzz, and that was all that mattered.

The flight left late and when it arrived in Miami I found out that there was actually a flight leaving to Montreal in thirty minutes that I may be able to catch if I ran. My god, I could still make a day of the bachelor party!  So I got my bags and ran like hell to the American counter where I was faced with a crowd of about fifteen thousand people and complete and utter filthy chaos. I pushed my way through the first class line and begged the lady to take me first. I was then informed that I was minutes too late and that flight was closed and there were no more flights to Canada that night. Aaaarrrggggg!!!!!!!

Beaten, humiliated, and exhausted, I made my way up to the Admiral's Club to see if they could help me and also to take a nice big dump in a clean toilet. I waited in line there for about forty minutes then finally got to the front and explained my situation to the nice lady there. I was in stunned disbelief when she told me she got me the last seat on a flight to New York with a connection to Toronto the next morning.  I should have been thrilled, but at that point I didn't have the energy to get excited.  I wasn't even that happy when the lady gave me a $30 food voucher for dinner that night at the hotel.

So I went and sat in the lounge for a while and called Ana to give her the good news. I then went and polluted their nice lavatory which was an absolute pleasure. I had a coffee and doughnut then gathered my bags and went back out through the airport to take a taxi to a hotel. The airport was total chaos, unlike anything I have ever seen before.

I arrived at the hotel, got my room, and ordered the best steak on the room service menu which ended up tasting like Goodyear rubber and cost me $40. I tried paying with the $30 voucher but they told me the voucher was only good for food in the airport.  Bastards, kicking me when I was down. This was the big bachelor party night and here I was all alone gnawing on a foul piece of overpriced meat without a beer. Definitely one of the lowest points of my otherwise charmed life.

Awoke the next morning at 5:00, had a delicious breakfast of bottled water, and went to the airport. If it was bad the night before, it was worse now. The lineup to American Airlines check-in was about 300 meters long, no kidding. I had to walk across practically the whole bloody airport just to find the end. I kept asking people in line, "Am I almost at the end?" and they laughed at me.  So I kept walking and walking in stunned disbelief.  When I finally got to the end of the line (and the airport), I was relieved to find that American Airlines staff were walking through the whole line and calling flights are they were ready to check in. After a while mine was called and I proceeded to the check in. I checked in, went through security where they looked through everything except my bowels, then I went to board my flight. The gate area was completely tranquil, totally unlike what was going on in the check-in side.

The flight left the gate on time. During the taxi out to the runway the plane passed about 80 ground workers who were all standing in a line waving American flags and saluting the plane, as it was one of the first planes headed for the recently re-opened La Guardia airport in New York. As we passed them the captain came on and said, "America loves you, we love you, God bless New York and God bless America!!". People on the plane started shouting, "God bless America" and laughing and even crying. Christ, I didn't know what to think!  I was just glad I was on the way home.

The plane flew into New York right over top of the smoldering ruins of the crumbled towers. Nobody on the plane said a word. They were all just quietly staring at the wreckage. The plane landed safely and I found out that the connection to Toronto had been cancelled, as we expected, which is why Ana had already booked a rental car for me at the airport. All my bags came out and I jumped on the shuttle to the rental company. I got my car and hit the road for upstate New York where Ana and Toddy were going to pick me up. The car trip was pretty good and I got to see a good deal of the state of New York. I arrived in Rochester after a 6.5 hour drive and Ana and Toddy were there to meet me. Their drive from Brantford was only about 3.5 hours and would have been shorter except that when they went across the border the US guard asked Toddy where he was from and he said, "Skippy". The guard said, "Pardon" and Toddy replied, "Skippy". Follow me inside please, son. So Toddy had to go into the office and fill out some paperwork and pay him some money for some kind of visa or something which slowed things down.

The trip back to Brantford was okay. I was so happy to finally be with Ana after 6 torturous days of airports, hotels, taxis, bad food, and stress. We got back around 11:00 pm that night and let me tell you I was happy to finally be there.

I have probably missed out a lot of things that happened to me en route, but if I try to tell you every piece of bad luck I had, I will never finish writing this little story.

Mr. Osama Bin Laden, thank you for teaching me the value of persistence.....

 

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