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Well we are only hours away from embarking on
the trip of a lifetime. We have talked for years about the
BIG trip, but finally the time is right and we have been lucky to
have jobs which allow us to save for such an adventure. This
didn't start off as being the "Ultimate Wine Tasting Tour" but a
few nights ago we realized that we are going to some of the best
wine producing countries in the world, so why not! Now if I
can only keep Kris into the wine and out of the beer. Who
knows, he may even add a wine review to the website.
We plan on seeing many friends on the way so
we are really looking forward to catching up, and also keeping the
folk at home updated on our travels. So off we
go......more from London.
Ana
Sept 26, 2002 - Capetown, South Africa
- Click here to view our South
Africa Page
We are exactly one week into our trip and
everything has been GREAT! Upon
arriving in London, we went immediately to pick up our round the
world tickets at the travel agency. That done, we went to
meet Toddy and he gave us the keys to his place so we could have a
short nap during the afternoon. It was a beautiful three
hours nap, at least enough to power us up for the night. We
went to a local pub with Toddy and his flatmates TJ and Simon and
Simon's girlfriend Angela. We had a nice meal and a chat and
drank about four pints of Stella then went back to the ranch.
The next morning I woke up with a stinking, filthy headache the
size of a small continent. It was the kind of headache that
wakes you up at seven in the morning then hurts so bad you can't
get back to sleep. Aaaaaggggh!! Needless to say that
ruined our plans to get going early and meet our friend John
Murray out at Windsor. I should know that I just can't take
the beers like I used to. That evening
we joined Toddy and his flatmates at a backyard barbeque which was
being held by one of the guys on their cricket team. It was
a good party, but got even better when one of the boys got out the
snuff and started handing it around. In the true spirit of
adventure, both Ana and I lined up a bit on the back of our finger
and snorted it back. Yowwwwww...what a wasabi blast!!!
If we were getting drowsy at that point in the party, we were
certainly awake after that stuff! The party ended up with us
spending about an hour and a half in Catford trying to find a
bus/taxi/mini-cab - anything to get back to the Docklands.
We finally got one to stop, but he told us we couldn't all fit
into a single cab, so Toddy volunteered to go back to the party,
that's the spirit! Next day we did
actually make it up early and were off to meet up with Heinrich
and his wife Davina for Sunday lunch. They took us out to a
lovely country pub where we stuffed ourselves with traditional
English grub then took the scenic route back to their place for a
cup of tea. Before long we were at the airport and on the
plane looking forward to the twelve hour journey to Capetown, and
the last few hours of Sept 22, 2002 - the first anniversary of our
marriage! We arrived the next morning
to a beautifully clear and sunny day in Capetown! The first
sight of Table Mountain was just as fabulous as I was expecting.
After arrival, we found some hostel information and jumped on the
"Backpacker Bus" to a great hostel near the Waterfront called The
Big Blue. We spent our first day taking a big walk through
the Seapoint and Waterfront areas. We went to bed early that
night, since we didn't sleep much on the flight, and work up the
next morning, 12 hours later. And for some reason, the
combination of the bad airplane seat, followed up with 12 hours in
bed was enough to give me a horrible back ache, so I spent most of
the day hobbling around Capetown's city centre like an old man.
It is slowly starting to feel better, but I think it will be with
me for a while yet. Despite this small problem, we spent the
last few days exploring Capetown and making plans for the rest of
our time here. We did a wine region tour yesterday which
included stops at four wineries and five wine "samples" which were
actually about half a glass each, at each of them. After 20
of those beauties, the facade of a cultural/educational event was
completely shattered and all the participants were well and truly
smashed. Today we took the cable car up to the top of Table
Mountain, which was definitely worthwhile.
We have decided to rent a car and start slowly
making our way up to Johannesburg. We get the car tomorrow
and are going to do a day trip up the west coast then the next day
we'll leave Capetown for a small town east of here called Hermanus.
Should be lots of fun! Kris
Sept. 29, 2002 - Betty's Bay, South Africa
We have so much to
tell and so little time to write about it. We have had an
absolutely fabulous few days touring around the southern Cape.
We got our car on Friday and decided that we would visit
the west coast, north of Capetown. Few people actually visit
that area, as it is not as scenic as the Garden Route along the
south side. We took off and ended up in the West Cape Nature
reserve. It is the end of wildflower season so there are
piles of purple, pink and yellow flowers everywhere. As we
got in the reserve, we stopped at the Tea Room and had a great
Earl Grey and watched a slew of yellow birds in their hanging tree
nests. As we continued into the reserve, we came upon
a turtle crossing the road, springboks (sort of like a big
antelope), a wildebeast and a herd of zebra,
how exciting! But our best animal of the day was a Puff Adder
snake we saw at the side of the road. We stopped and took
some photos (not too close!), but didn't realize at the time how
venomous this snake really is. We'll stay far away from African
snakes in the future, don't want to risk a bite. So a great trip and our first
experience with the African flora and fauna.
We said good
bye on Saturday to our friends at the Big Blue Hostel in Capetown
and began the next leg of our trip which will take us through the
Cape peninsula, then over to the Garden Route, where we will
meet with Kris' friend Trudy and her partner Philippe this coming
weekend. We spent much of the first day on the most beautiful
mountain roads ever!! The view of lush green mountains with
wild flowers on one side and the blue and white sea crashing on
the cliffs on the other, was just spectacular. We drove all
the way to the bottom of Africa to another reserve called the Cape
of Good Hope Reserve. In the reserve we came across a little
pack of baboons. They were really cute!! On the way
there, were were also fortunate enough to see a whale in one of
the bays. So we made our way to Betty's Bay and stayed the
night. In the morning we planned to get on the road and make
our way to the great white shark diving capital of the world, Hermanus, but we met
a fantastic couple in the coffee shop. Michael and Cheryl
are South African and offered to show us a little of the coast.
They are from Capetown, but have a beautiful summer home in
Betty's Bay. We spent a great afternoon with them seeing a
little more of Betty's old whaling town. We love South
Africans!!! So we have now arrived in Hermanus. Our
$15.00 USD per night room at the local hostel is nicer than most
hotels we've been in and they have a pool, a TV rooms and a bar
about 7 steps from our bedroom, Kris is in heaven!! To
top off an already fantastic day we spend the last 2 hours
watching 6 whales frolicking in the bay. It doesn't get much
better than this. So we are off now to finish the day with a $0.60 beer and a $3.00 steak. More soon....
Ana
October 10, 2002 - N2 Highway on the way to Drakensburg Mountains
We apologize for the lack of communication in
the last week. We've been busy making our way up the east
cost of S. Africa. It's been fantastic and we've seen so
much...it feels like we've been here for months. After we
left Hermanus we made our way into an area in the mountains called
Outdsdoorn. It is Ostrich capital of the world. There
are more there than anywhere. They grow them for their meat
and their feathers. We went on a great tour of an ostrich
farm and I even got to ride one. I'm sure will show you the
hilarious video at some point.
The area is also known for it's caves. There is a huge cave
system in the mountains there called the Cango Caves. We
went on a tour into the caves called the adventure tour. I
must not be very adventurous because it was hard work. We
firstly went into 3 large caverns, all with their own unique names
and stories. Then the more we walked the smaller and smaller
the caves and their entrances got. The last tunnel we had to
climb through a chimney like formation. If you weighed 10
lbs more then I do you'd have a hard time make it up. Then
the last one you had to lay on your stomach and pull yourself
through and then go head first out of another hole. It was
an interesting experience, not for the timid or claustrophobic.
Our next stop was a beautiful place, aptly
named Wilderness. This is where our friends Trudy and
Philippe have built a gorgeous home overlooking a cliff and the
Indian Ocean. The village is also home to a lagoon so it has
plenty of places to go canoeing and hiking. We mostly stayed
around the house and tried to help out a bit with a plumbing problem that
soaked their entire main floor. They showed us such a
splendid time there from the champagne sunsets to the fantastic
meals out at the local restaurants. From Wilderness we also made
a trip on the local steam train to a place called Knysna. It
has a beautiful harbour area and we went on a tour of the Knysna
Oyster Co. For a whole $1.00 we went on a little tour and
did some oyster tasting.
As we continued our way up the coast, things
are getting less and less developed and more and more African.
The next area we went to was called the "Wild Coast" or also known
as the Transkei. The Transkei use to be its own
country, but in the last 10 years they have become part of S.
Africa. Not soon enough as the locals have stripped every
tree in sight, so the initial drive was a bit of a bore. The
trees were replaced by these interesting little green and brown
clay huts. These belong to the local Xhosa people.
This tribe dominates the area and we spend some time getting to
know a bit about their culture. We stayed on the coast in a
teeny little town called Coffee Bay. The hostel was owned by
a couple who have turned this very primitive place into a
paradise. There are hammocks and a bar, a walk to the beach
and lots of place to hide and read a good book. They even
have yoga!!! In the evenings they have traditional drum
lessons and they have the local kids come and sing and dance their
traditional music.
Perhaps the nicest part of our trip so far was on a Town Tour we
went on. Silas our Xhosa guide took up to his house to meet
his family and told us about his tribe. We walked to their
sacred pools were they baptize people and make sacrifices to their
ancestors. Lastly he took us to the local bar. It was
quite dark as there was only one candle, (no electricity in the
village). Inside there was a few ladies and 3 men smoking
and enjoying a brew as they sat on some beer crates. Silas
bought us some local beer made from corn and the music came on and
all the ladies got up to dance. It was like a regular
nightclub except that the women were wrapped in blankets and some
didn't have shoes. One even had a beautiful baby wrapped on
her back. So we danced, and drank and laughed. It was
amazing.
So today we left our new friends, to find a few
new ones in the mountains. Hope to hear from you all soon.
Happy Birthday Mom!!!
Ana
October 31, 2002
- Busselton, Australia
Auuuustralia!!
Yes, we made it to stop number two on our round the world wine
tour. We have been in Western Australia touring around with our
friends Karen Barlow and her boyfriend Jamie and they have been
showing us an absolutely splendid time!
We wrapped up our South Africa trip with a few day in Johannesburg
with our friends Trudy and Philippe. They were the perfect hosts!
We spent more than a couple hours enjoying their mind blowing home
entertainment system and vast collection of DVDs which was a great
break after all the driving around. We also enjoyed some great
meals together and really had a nice visit. It was the best ending
to a wonderful time in South Africa.
We arrived in Perth about a week ago and were met at the airport
by Karen and Jamie, who had both taken time off work to spend a
long weekend with us cruising around Western Australia. It was so
nice to see Karen again and also to met Jamie, who is a super guy.
We spent the first night in Fremantle, which is a coastal town
near Perth, and sampled all the local beers we could find. The
next days we drove to a small town called Denmark which is on the
south coast and spent for two nights. We saw some great things
around there including a magnificent canopy walk through the
"Valley of the Giants" which is a forest of huge karri and tingle
trees. We also saw our first kangaroos! Ana tried her best to
catch one and ride it but it was just too fast for her. We visited
some lovely wineries and sampled many varieties of delicious wine.
Unfortunately, the price of wine here is astronomical compared to
South Africa, likely three times the price! But I'm glad to
report that hasn't stopped us from consuming vast quantities...
The last few days we've been hanging around
Karen and Jamie's place in Busselton, keeping ourselves busy with
squid fishing, crabbing, and drinking beer. Poor Karen has
been working all week but Jamie managed to ditch work and is
spending his hours showing us around, lucky Olsons!!! This
morning Jamie and I were up at 5:30, same as yesterday, fishing
for squid off the incredible 2 km long jetty. We caught four
including two biggies so have amassed enough squid for a big feast
tonight. In a couple hours we are traveling to Karen's
parent's place which is near Bunbury. The plan is to try and
catch some marron (lobster-like shellfish, indigenous to western
Australia) this afternoon then join Karen's parents for a big
barbeque tonight, which they have kindly invited us to.
We extended our stay here to include this
weekend (Karen's off work, yeah!) so we plan to do some
interesting day trips and probably drink some more wine.
Jamie introduced me to Emu Bitter so we'll likely drink a few more
crates of that as well. It's good to be on vacation!
We will be leaving from Perth on Monday for
Sydney, then catching a flight to Cairns to hit the beaches and
diving! We are planning on meeting our friends Pavdaddy and
Jayesh somewhere along the east coast...meeting point as yet
unknown but that is sure to be a blast.
That's it for now, next update from the east
coast!!
Kris
(almost forgot, Happy Halloween!!!!!!)
November 11, 2002 - Airlie Beach, Queensland, Australia
It's already been a week on the east coast and
the time is passing much too quickly. Ana and I arrived in
Airlie Beach this evening after a 12 hour bus ride from Cairns
which was surprisingly relaxing and comfortable. Tomorrow we
embark on a six day and night sailing trip around the Whitsunday
islands on the Solway Lass - a 127 ft Tall Ship! We are
hoping that this will be one of the big highlights of our trip.
The ship was built in The Netherlands in 1902 and has been through
two world wars, four name changes, innumerable countries, and has
served as a cargo vessel, ice breaker, war ship, coal transport,
floating restaurant, and now a fully restored tourist sailing
vessel (check out
www.soxsail.com.au). Our plans after that are to visit
Fraser Island on a multi day trip then work our way toward Sydney
in time for our Nov. 30 departure to New Zealand.
We had quite a nice time in the Cairns area.
We found Cairns to be a very busy tourist town, but quite a fun
place to be. The first hostel we stayed in was called
Castaways and seemed okay until we found that our bed was infested
with bed bugs which were biting us as we were sitting on the bed.
Unfortunately, the office was closed by that time and there was no
staff around so we had no choice but to strip the bed and clean it
the best we could then put our own sleep sheets on it. We
still got a few bites during the night but not too bad. The
next day we found another place called Dreamtime Traveler's Rest
which turned out to be a real gem with great staff. From
there we took a lovely two day tour to their sister hostel called
On The Wallaby which was located near a rainforest. We went
on some interesting walks in the forest as well as biking,
swimming, and even canoeing where we saw three platypussies (not
sure of the grammar on that one, but that's the most humorous word
I can think of for the plural of "platypus"). Strange little
creatures, sort of half duck half muskrat but impossible to
differentiate between the head and the ass end.
One thing that has surprised on the east coast
is the tourism saturation. It is certainly one of the more
commercialised areas we've ever been to. In fact, there's so
many backpackers around that it's sometimes tough to find an
Australian! The average age of backpackers here is also much
younger than it was in South Africa, likely because this is such
an obvious place for a first time traveler to visit, and I think
that any 20 year old would find the party of their life here!
The other day we saw a t-shirt in a shop window that said, "The
Liver is Evil and Must Be Punished!". Made me think of my
time in the Bahamas...
We were lucky enough to meet up with our friend
Pavin, who is from Saskatchewan but is currently in school in the
States. We spent an afternoon together in Cairns enjoying
the sun and some cold beers before seeing him off to the airport
for his flight back home. Too bad he wasn't staying
overnight then we could have punished our livers more thoroughly.
Actually, I'm going through a little dry therapy at the moment
after the ten days I spent boozing with Jamie in Western Australia
which I enjoyed thoroughly and am still enjoying every time I look
in the mirror and see those little spare tires peeking over my
swimsuit.
Next update after the big sailing trip!
Kris
Nov 25,
2002 - Hervey Bay, Queensland, Australia
Today is Ana's birthday! And we are celebrating by getting
on a bus at 7:00 and traveling to Brisbane where we will go out
for a nice birthday dinner and spend the night. Tomorrow we
will continue to Byron Bay where we willl spend a night or two
before making the final stretch to Sydney.
Our trip to Queensland has been magnificent! We'd say that
the six days sailing in the Whitsundays was definitely the
highlight of our stay in Queensland. It felt great to be
back on the water enjoying the salt, sun and surf. The only
disappointment was the diving which was unremarkable, but we
weren't too worried about that. We put together a page on
our sailing trip with
plenty of pictures. I was wishing that the boys from the
Lost Shaker could have been with us on the trip as it would have
been a great reunion! After such a great time, Ana and I
have decided that we definitely need to own another sailboat in
the future!
Last night we returned from a three day tour of Fraser Island,
which is the largest sand island in the world with some amazing
natural features. There are no real roads on the island so
the only way to get through the sand is with a good 4WD vehicle.
It is quite a feeling doing 80 kph down a beach with the surf
crashing in! One of the most amazing things we did was a
hike across a huge "sandblow" which was just like being in the
middle of a desert. The hike ended in a beautiful clean
freshwater lake that was great for swimming. Now that I
think about it, I better put together a little feature page on
Fraser Island.
We are getting very close to the end of our time in Australia.
It has been an extremely easy place to travel through due to the
highly developed (and competitive) tourist industry. By the
same token it makes it much more difficult to get off the beaten
path and explore on your own, which is what we like doing.
Oh well, we are going to get plenty of that in South America so
we're just enjoying the easy traveling while we have it!
The next update may be from New Zealand....
Kris
December 10, 2002 - Christchurch, New Zealand
It's been a busy time in New Zealand! We arrived in Auckland
about a week ago to gorgeous weather and decided to bus north to a
town called Paihia which is on the coast of the Bay of Islands, an
idyllic island paradise off the northernmost part of the north
island. We took a 24 hour tour on this unbelievable
houseboat called "The Rock" and packed in a lot of activity
including fishing, snorkeling, diving for mussels, sea kayaking,
hiking, billiards, dolphin watching, and even some relaxing on the
beach! I also did a half day fishing excursion (Ana passed
on this) and caught a pile of red snapper which we ate for dinner
that night. We returned to Auckland and then flew to
Christchurch where Johnny Eyre-Walker was there to meet us with a
smile and three cold beers. It was great to see him again!
We moved into his and his girlfriend Carolyn's house then settled
in for a night of hangover construction. I made sure to
arrive on a weeknight so I could wave Johnny bye bye as he left
the next morning for work - revenge is sweet!
It was Carolyn's 30th birthday last Saturday so they had a big
barbeque party at their place where we met a lot of their friends
and family. We got a little rained out, but that didn't stop
anything - it was a great party.
We are now getting ready for our tour of the South Island and have
reserved a Harley Davidson Softail Classic for two days beginning
tomorrow! I am so excited I can hardly contain myself as
I've never ridden a Harley before. I think we are going to
ride to Queenstown then back up the west coast and over to
Christchurch, as it's meant to be a spectacular drive.
We will return on Friday then are planning a weekend away with
Carolyn and Johnny, destination unknown. Next week we'll
likely hang around for a few days then make our way northwards and
find a nice place to spend Christmas. We'll be missing you
all but at the same time enjoying the weather!
Kris
December
17, 2002 - Christchurch, New Zealand
I was born to be a biker, of this I am now
sure. Our Harley ride was spectacular and to make the
experience complete, day two was a complete washout and we looked
like eels after spending a full ten hours on the bike through
torrential rainstorms. Luckily, we made it back safely and
had pure sunshine on our last morning's ride into Christchurch,
which was a stunning ride through Allan's Pass which had some
incredible views. We did a total of about 1200 kilometers
which isn't too bad considering it was very slow going on many of
the mountain roads. One of the most scenic things was the
proliferation of gorgeous yellow and purple wildflowers in the
fields around the mountains. Now all we need to do is settle
down somewhere so I can get myself a bike!
We are nearing the end of our visit here in
Christchurch. We leave here on Thursday and will be heading
up to Nelson for a few days then we'll take the ferry to the north
island and spend Christmas in Wellington. After that we only
have a few days to get back up to Auckland for New Years and the
next leg of our journey... to Chile!
Kris
December 24, 2002 - Wellington, New Zealand
Merry Christmas!! We are having an
extremely lazy morning here in Wellington. All the Christmas
shopping is done (1 present each) so it should be a very
stress-free day. The biggest challenge will be scouting out
a good restaurant to have dinner tonight. We are staying in
a lovely apartment-hotel right in the centre of Wellington and
will be here until the 26th when we begin the last leg of our
journey up to Auckland.
Our time with Johnny and Carolyn couldn't have
been better. They showed us a fantastic time and it was a
real pleasure to see them again after a couple years. On our
last weekend they took us to a place called Hanmer Springs which
is a lovely little mountain town a couple hundred kilometers from
Christchurch. They organised a beautiful house with stunning
views of the town and mountains and only a short walk from the hot
spring pools where we enjoyed a good soaking in the afternoon.
We had the most chilled out night sitting in front of a crackling
fire in the fireplace with some great wines, cheeses and music.
Johnny and I learned that it is actually possible to have an
enjoyable night together without getting absolutely blind.
But for old times sake, we got the big guns out for our last night
in Christchurch which resulted in a magnificent hangover the next
morning. I was happy to wave Johnny bye-bye one last time as
he trotted off to work with bloodshot eyes and this alcohol vapour
seeping out of him which gave him the appearance of being
surrounded by a force field. He called me from work to
report that the staff in the office had taken up a collection to
go buy him some breath freshening gum. Mission accomplished!
Kris
January 1,
2003 - Auckland, New Zealand
Happy New Year kiddies!! We had a quite but very nice time
last night sitting in a park drinking wine, smoking a cigar, and
watching the fireworks shot off the top of Skytower in the centre
of Auckland. We've been exploring the city for the past few
days doing plenty of walking and sightseeing. Yesterday we
wandered through the harbour which is the home of the America's
Cup sailing race, quite interesting.
Today we are hanging around the hostel waiting
for our taxi which is arriving at 2:00pm to take us to the
airport. We fly overnight to Chile, gaining a day in the
process, and will arrive in Santiago at noon on New Years Day.
If my calculations are correct we should get another New Year's
countdown somewhere over the Pacific!
More to come from Chile....
Kris
January 10, 2003 - Puno, Peru
What a year it's been already and it's only the
10th of January. We needed a second wind for this last half
of our adventure and we have certainly gotten it here in South
America. WHAT A PLACE!!!! Where do I begin...We
arrived in Santiago, Chile and spent a day adjusting to the 16
hour time difference. We then called our friend Alvaro and
went for dinner with him in his wife at a great little restaurant
in one of the suburbs of the city. Our first day out and
already the place is full of character and amazing sites around
every corner....viva los latinos....they are a great bunch!!
We no sooner got to Santiago, when we found
cheap flights to the northern border city of Arica. So off
we went to the desert. This little town emerges out of no
where like a mirage. Not much there but a huge market, miles
of sand, a museum with Inca mummies and plenty of
transport options to Peru. The border crossing was amazingly
straight forward and our driver did everything from fill out forms
to stand in line! What service! The first major town
we arrived in was called Arequipa. The centre of town is
full of beautiful colonial style cathedrals and buildings which
are lit up at night! Although it seems to have much to offer
tourists, there didn't seem to be many, and that was perhaps the
best part of all. We also went to a 15th century convent
called Convento de Santo Catarina, which is the size of a small
town.
We next decided to go on a fantastic over
night tour to the second deepest canyon in the world called Canon
de Colca. Quite a sight, as were the condors which circled
overhead. One part of that tour that I WILL try and forget
is the giant rodent (Guinea Pig) that Kris ate that
evening...Ugh!! They are apparently a local delicacy and
Kris insists on trying all local foods. We had a diverse
group of people on the tour; four Peruvians, one American, one
Brazilian, one German, one Nicaraguan, one Palestinian, one Irish,
one French and us two Canadians. Quite a group, but to top
it all off, we ALL spoke Spanish!!!
Our next stop was the famous Machu Picchu ruins
near the colonial town of Cusco. Cusco is one of the last
inhabited civilizations of the Incas. It is surrounded by
ruins, and has a variety of churches, and other monuments,
later built by the Spaniards which arrived in Peru in the 16th
century. Machu Picchu is the largest and most well
preserved display of Inca ruins in the world, and it was magical.
It took 4 hours by train and another 1/2 hour by bus to get there,
but it was worth every minute. We had a wonderful
guide who described he place, like he had built it with his own
two hands. He was the most passionate and articulate tour
guide we've ever had!! So just when we thought that nothing
could top what we'd seen in Peru, we come to Puno, a small
unattractive little town on the highest navigable lake in the
world called Lake Titicaca. This afternoon, we went on a
boat ride to the a group of floating islands made entirely
of reeds. On these islands live a community of 800
descendants of a pre-Inca race called the Uros. They build the
islands, their homes, boats, all out of these water reeds.
They survive by fishing and then bartering with other floating
islands and the people from the mainland. Such a simple
life, but they all had the most magical smiles.....we have so much
to learn.
So that has been our first 10 days of 2003. I only hope the
next 355 are as exciting.
Ana
January
19, 2003 - San Pedro de Atacama, Chile
We're back in Chile after our Bolivia
expedition. In short, we were quite disappointed with
Bolivia.. We found the people to be much less friendly and
competent than Peru and Chile and even rude sometimes. La
Paz was quite an interesting city upon first arrival but once you
got into the guts of it, we found it to be just another busy,
filthy, noisy city, except with many more aggressive beggars and
merchants. Once good thing was the low price of things,
there were a lot of bargains to be had. I bought a stringed
instrument called a charango, which is a beautiful sounding
guitar-like beastie used in Bolivian music. Ana picked up a
lovely alpaca sweater. We also found a great hotel where we
did a bit of relaxing.
We booked ourselves on a four day tour to the
Uyuni region in the south west part of Bolivia. We had a bit
of trouble getting there (if you have ten minutes, have a look at
this story) and saw some
really seedy towns along the way. But once the tour was
underway, we really did have a great time, mostly due to the
fantastic group we were with. We had a Bolivian guide named
Emilio and the other people were an Austraian/New Zealander couple
and a Swiss couple, all of whom were fantastic people with great
senses of humour. The Bolivian countryside we traveled
through was nothing short of amazing. The scenery changed
from a gigantic salt lake, to dry desert cactuses, to huge snowy
mountains, to lunar dust, to muddy lakes full of flamingoes, to
red lakes, to mountains of borax and, finally, to a final night's
accommodation that was so putrid, so foul, and so disgusting that
even Ana was looking for the sweet anesthesia of alcohol. I
don't want to write too much about it, I think there is a good
story to come from that trip!
We arrived back in Chile yesterday to a town
called San Pedro de Atacama which was described as a lovely
frontier town by the guide books but is actually a dusty,
overpriced, gringo hole. The only redeeming features are the
selection of nice restaurants with great food and groovy bars.
We had a splendid time last night with a bunch of the people from
our tour. We had dinner and drinks in a restaurant with an
open roof in the centre allowing lunar rays to shine in and a
crackling wood fire on the ground. We sat around the fire
playing cards and having a good laugh. We are going to meet
up with the Australian/New Zealander couple in a few weeks in
Argentina and Brazil which is sure to be a great time.
We will spend the day here tomorrow then in the
evening catch a night bus back to Arica where we will have a day
then fly back to Santiago. It seems like it has been ages
since we arrived in Chile but it's only been a couple weeks!
Good sign, that means our trip isn't going too fast...
Kris
March 26, 2003 - Brantford, Canada...basement of Ana's parent's
house
You are probably wondering, 'What the hell happened?'! It
has been two months since our last journal entry which is the
result of us being robbed of our laptop on an overnight bus in
Chile. After the required visits to the police station to
report the loss we moved on to Argentina....and were robbed
again!! This time the cabin we were renting was ransacked
when we were out for dinner. So, a fair bit of bad luck came
our way during that portion of the trip but we did manage to
recover and had a splendid time traveling through Argentina and
Brasil, especially since we were traveling with our friends
Rebecca and Fraser whom we met in Bolivia.
We are now back in Canada and have since replaced our laptop and
are finally able to get back online to update our site. We
are going to do some work on the site over the next few days so
stay tuned!
Kris
Continuing journal entries can be found
on our
Journal Page |