British Columbia 
 

 


"BC", as it is called by Canuckies, is the western-most province in Canada, if you exclude Alaska.  No, wait, Alaska's part of the US now, I forgot.  Anyway, BC is best known for totem poles, killer whales, ski hills, lots of illegal marijuana farms, magic mushroom hunters and greenie green environmentalists.  Famous people from BC include silicon superstar Pamela Anderson (who's applied for American citizenship - traitor!) and David Suzuki, best known for his very successful motorcycle designs, though also dabbles in the mating habits of fruit flies.

The People

Nice people.  Very nice.  Much less redneck than other prairie-folk, but perhaps a bit more redneck than citizens of the "British" motherland.  The name of the province is actually derived from the first non-indian explorer who rowed up to mainland four hundred years ago, into the bay where present day Vancouver lies.  He was a drug and tea runner named William Escobar, hence the "British" and "Columbia" connection.  He discovered a virgin market for his product and soon all the natives up and down the coast were smoking crack and drinking lovely Earl Grey tea.  But they soon tired of this frivolity and skewered William on a totem pole, then returned to their lives of tranquility, fishing for salmon and hunting wildebeest.

Things to Know

You'll find traveling around Canada that the basic things you need to know don't vary much.  Besides the different time zones, provincial sales tax rates and drinking age, everything is the same.  One unique part of BC, though, is that they have a few islands - Vancouver Island being the largest of them.  But....surprise!!!  The city of Vancouver isn't on Vancouver Island, it's on the mainland.  Don't feel bad, everybody falls for that one.

Places to Go

We've not had the chance to explore much of BC; only Vancouver, Vancouver Island, and this summer we are going on a houseboat trip on Shuswap Lake (stay tuned).  For now, we'll give you a rundown of Tofino and Victoria, both on Vancouver Island.  

Tofino

Long beaches, greasy haired, tattooed surfer dudes, organic bakeries, skids, backpackers and hippies of all varieties.  If you are guessing Bali or maybe Phuket, you'd be right!  But who would have thought we have a town like this in the Great White North?  We do and it's called Tofino and located on the western coast of Vancouver Island.  We spent a lovely few days there in May and it felt like we were back on the "backpacker trail" except for the fact that we were staying at an up market B&B overlooking a gorgeous bay.

There is a fair bit of commercialization which you can overlook if you want to, but if you're up for it, you can visit offshore hot springs, go whale watching, watch (and smell) sea lions, fish for salmon, go scuba diving or take surfing lessons.  I went on a half-day fishing trip which was great but the rest of the time was spent hanging out on the beach, loitering around town and visiting the numerous restaurants and coffee shops.

We stayed at a memorable B&B called Tide's Inn.  The beds were soft, the view magnificent, the breakfast terrific and the hot tub very hot.  Considering the cheapest looking hotels were charging $80/night, the Tide's Inn was well worth the $120/night.  There seemed to be lots of B&Bs around and a number of hotels, but they all apparently get extremely busy in the summer so it's best to book ahead.

The best place we found to eat in Tofino was a small relaxed cafe called Breakers Deli which is right across from the Co-op Grocery Store & Family Fashions (true small town).  The restaurant doesn't look like much from the outside but inside it's got a great feel and atmosphere, not to mention an incredible array of goodies.  I had a tuna burger that was amazing, a beautiful tuna fillet with pineapple, hot mustard, greens, sauces, etc.  Yummy!  We also ate at the Sea Shanty and the Rain Coast cafes, both of which were pretty good.

Tofino is a four and a half hour drive from Victoria, which includes a ten minute stop at McDonalds in Port Alberni for chicken nuggets and a piss.

Victoria

Don't expect a sleepy island town...this place is tourist central!  Anytime you find a "Madame Tussaud's Wax Museum" it's best to run the other way.  Unfortunately the whole Inner Harbour area is like this, we're talking Whale Watching boats, horse carriage tours, rickshaw rides, bagpipers, panhandlers, overpriced restaurants and a horrifyingly cheesy-looking tourist spectacles called "Miniature World".  It was only when we got out of this area that we found some interesting spots.

Beacon Hill Park, which is a five minute walk from the parliament building, is a tranquil, quiet escape and definitely worth a visit.  We didn't walk through the entire park but what we did see was very nice.  Our favourite place was an area east of the city centre called Oak Bay.  It's a primarily residential area with gorgeous houses, amazing greenery and landscaping, and a decent beach, at least by Canadian standards!  It was refreshing to wander throughout this area away from the tourists and see what a real part of Victoria was like.

Campbell River

Yet another gem on the beautiful Vancouver Island.  This town and location does seem to have it all; world class salmon fishing, miles of hiking trails, waterfalls, downhill skiing, sailing with orca whales in the Pacific, beaches.  We spent a few days there and barely scratched the surface.  Luckily, grandpa Pete just bought a cabin there right near the ocean with a beautiful big grassy yard perfect for barefoot soccer matches.  The town itself is big enough to have everything you need, but the proximity to the ocean and to the countryside gives it a cottage country feel.  Since dad's place has a renter in it for the moment we rented a cabin at a place called Dolphins Resort (www.dolphinsresort.com) which was a superb place.  We rented a four bedroom cabin with an ocean view and deck complete with hot tub for $200/night.  The staff were great and the surroundings pristine.  We were a little early in the season for fishing so we'll have to try that next time.

 

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Ana and Fuzzy on Long Beach


Salmon fishing


A perfect afternoon


The bird lady


View from the Tide's Inn in Tofino


Fuzzy getting some rays


Oak Bay beach in Victoria


Victoria


Magnus' toes in the Pacific


Discovery passage


View from grandpa's cabin


Olson's Oasis - Campbell River chapter


Tree jacket


Local sights


Waterfall


Ride 'em cowbaby


Pier at Campbell River


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