Tico's Guide to Puerto Rico 
 

Kris and Ana,

PLEASE PRINT THIS as a reference for your next visit to Puerto Rico. For just  3 days I recommend the following route: 

First a note:

1. You don’t want to talk politics as is an issue here. There are three main political parties. Two of them more or less follow USA . The POPULAR DEMOCRATIC PARTY (aligns with Democrats in USA) is the governing party. We have a woman governor (Sila Maria Calderon) and our Chief Executive and President is George Bush. This party wants PR stays the way we are … a “Commonwealth with USA””. The second party is the Partido Nuevo (aligns with Republicans in USA). They want full statehood for PR. Both parties have share power in last 30 years. The third party (only 4.5% of vote) is the PR Independence Party, they want the republic and independence from USA.

2.  Our system of government is exactly that of any USA state. We have federal courts and all laws in USA applies here.

3.  We have two official languages, Spanish and English. But many people are afraid of talking English and feel more comfortable in Spanish. Others like me, speaks “spanglish”.

4.  We have a strong Latino culture and strong Spanish influence. We were part of Spain for 400 years and now part of USA in the last 102 years. We are very nationalists. I.e. our “nationality “ is Puertorican, as our citizenship is USA.

5.  We drive by the right. It is unlawful to drink and drive . In old San Juan and some municipalities you are not allowed to drink in the street. 

6.  We use the US$, mail, defense, etc etc. Same thing as in Iowa or Florida or any other state.

7.  One current issue is the PR government wants the navy to get out of island of VIEQUES. This tiny island town in our east coast had been used by USA and NATO forces as a shooting range since WW2 (60 years now) and they practice here with bombs, submarines, supercarriers, tanks, heavy weapons, etc. The Navy claims there is no other place in the continental USA that they can practice. (we suggested Cape Cod but they didn't like the idea….).

8. DRIVING is more or less reasonable. WE DON'T USE THE HORN EXCEPT IN A REAL NEED. PEOPLE DON'T LIKE to be honked every time they stop. Also people don’t like to be followed by a car so close as almost in the back seat, watch your distances.

9. Be careful in Metropolitan area of San Juan in MANY streets there is an exclusive mark lane. This is for the busses (public transportation) AND THEY RUN AGAINST THE TRAFFIC!!!!  This is so to maintain a schedule and not be subject of traffic congestion. It is illegal for you to go against the traffic and using the exclusive or bus lanes. SO LOOK BOTH SIDES EVEN IN ONE WAY TRAFFIC STREETS. As the bus will be coming by your LEFT!!!!

10. The government is constructing a subway and monorail system and you will see congestion in many streets in the metro area.

11. Remember PR is overpopulated and very high density. We have 3.8 million people and 1.2 million cars. It is crowded so be patient. Also although our relation with USA and common citizenship, we are Latinos. So we are late, and sometimes don’t follow the rules. But is not SD either.

12. You will arrive the first Monday of the Holy Week. We are mostly Catholic, people will be in church but most will be on the beach. Even though beach will be totally full, sold out and congested after Thursday (day after you leave). Anyhow you will get crowds in the beach areas. But is manageable.

Tips for the Trip:

1.     Get a camarote (room) in the ship . (note from Kris – we were planning on taking the overnight ferry from Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic to Puerto Rico.  I did end up taking this ferry a couple months later and would definitely recommend it!!).  The most expensive, sometimes the ship moves heavy. Buy your dinner and next day breakfast before boarding at the same port in SD. Take with you water, coca cola, and snacks as is very expensive inside the ship. Enjoy what you can. Go to the bar, stay outside, go to the movies, try to sleep. A small doses of antivert and Imodium is a good companion just in case. 

2.     You will start seeing PR coast by 600AM. To your left is the Island of DESECHEO. Next you will arrive to Mayaguez City around 800AM. Between one thing and the other you will be out around 900AM. I guess you will take a Taxi to the airport to get your car. (from port to airport is around 20-30 minutes.) 

DAY ONE !!!!!

(Joyudas used to be a small fishing village now you find all types of condominiums, fisherman, restaurants all mixed up. You will be driving along the west coast going south. You will then go to another small village BOQUERON and end up in LA PARQUERA). 

2.     FROM MAYAGUEZ to JOYUDAS --- Say 45 minutes driving slowly DRIVE SLOW!!!!!!! Many curves cars etc. Back from the airport take Road # 2 back to the City of Mayaguez. Take a right in intersection with Road # 102 and follow 102 for about 20-25 minutes. It is a narrow paved road along the sea until you get to “JOYUDAS.  After you pass this PARADOR in 5 minutes to the left is a place call EL GATITO. You can stop there have a beer and EMPANADILLAS de CHAPIN. Or any other EMPANADILLA. One with each beer is OK. It should be around 11:00 AM now.

4.     FROM JOYUDAS TO BOQUERON:  Some 20-30 minutes driving slowly. Continue Road 102 until intersection with ROAD 100. I guess there is a Mc Donald’s to the left.  Take a right towards BOQUERON. At end of road 100 turn right and take road 101 to BOQUERON.  Park . Walk around main street. (did you close the car ???) If not walk back and do it!!!!!! Eat in the street, buy OSTIONES . This are mollusks. Use lemon on them and have a beer with each couple of OSTIONES.  Now should be around 1:00 PM. Time to start moving again and going to la PARQUERA.

5.     FROM BOQUERON TO LA PARQUERA>>> 20-30 minutes . My wife suggests that for time constrains stay in LA PARQUERA instead of GUANICA. As otherwise you will spend too much time driving. So if you have not reserve in GUANICA try to get some hotel or PARADOR in LA PARQUERA for one night.

6.     Follow Road 101 leaving Boqueron to La Parquera, then take road 303 then 305 then 116 and finally 304 to LA PARQUERA. Try to be here around 2:00 PM. You will arrive when road finish. Check the brochure you have and get a reservation. You can try LA HAMACA, or PARADOR POSADA PORLAMAR or VILLA DEL MAR or VILLA PARQUERA.  Check in the web.

7.     Check in and get swimming gear and shorts, sandals and go to the muelle ask somebody for the boats rental YOU DRIVE NOT THE TOURIST EXCURSIONS and rent a boat with an outboard motor.  YOU DRIVE IT, the four of you is much better!!!!! It cost around 20/hour including a tank of gasoline.  Go to the right on main channel until the lasts houses and explore the channels. Turn back, pass the boat rental place and continue by main channel , pass the University Marine Sciences small island until you reach the marina then to the right and front of the marina ( around 1 kilometre ) is a small Kay ( MOJONES ) ( this means Shit in Spanish) , take a bath there or go farther ( ask there) to Mata de la Gata and have the swim there. I prefer MOJONES. Tie the boat to the mangrove, but don’t break the branches. You might want to take some six packs and a small foam inexpensive ice cooler with some snacks for this boat journey. This could take say 2 hours and return the boat.  Note the police as well as the Coast Guard have miles per hours limits in parts of main channel, “drive” the boat on the right, have a lifesaver for each passenger , have rows and rope . All this is already in any rental boat, but nevertheless check.  The marine police will be around as is Holly week and many people go to the beach.

8.     Now back for a shower and check FOR AN EXCURSION in the night to see in BOAT the bioluminescent bay (Bahia fosforesente) Don’t know how much they charge per person but it is good, better if there is no moon.

9.     Go and have dinner in any walking restaurant. Try SORULLITOS before dinner.

DAY TWO!!!!

Up early say before 9AM. Check out and take road 304 to 116 to road #2 and drive from LA PARQUERA TO SAN JUAN. Without stooping this will take two - three hours. This route will take you via a valley, pass the town of GUANICA ( where I grew up) This town is famous as the USA invasion to PR was via that town. The town have beautiful beaches, as Cana Gorda, Gilligans Island, Dead Man Beach, Ballena Channels. Places to stay, Hotel COPA MARINA and Mary Lee by the Sea or “Canos” near Mary Lee. But go to San Juan you don’t have time. After you pass near the entrance to the town of Guanica you will pass the entrance to the town of YAUCO. After you pass the town of YAUCO  Road 2 , you will drive by the refineries and reach the City of PONCE . This is the second city of PR. It is VERY HOT. The center is very nice and you can look around. BUT I RECOMMEND YOU PASS PONCE and before entering the city via road 2 take the toll way (AUTOPISTA IN SPANISH) ROAD # 52 to San Juan. After Ponce you will drive via the toll way (have quarters and dimes for the express lanes or if you need change use the C lanes ) this means CHANGE. Will cost around US$3 paying the various tolls along the way.

You will reach SJ around 12-100PM. Enter SJ via the AUTOPISTA continue straight until you find the TUNEL. Under the tunnel stay in left lane, pass the tunnel , take the loop and you will be on road # 26 or BALDORIOTY DE CASTRO . Follow signs to OLD SAN JUAN. You will see the Caribe Hilton on the right, then the Normandy Hotel a park on the left continue along the coast you will find the capitol to the left and just before entering SJ you will se SAN CRISTOBAL FORTRESS turn right along Calle Norzagaray until you find a plaza with the TOTEM. Take left along Calle Cristo and you will see Hotel CONVENTO to your right and the San Juan Cathedral to your left. Hopefully they have valet parking (expensive) but there is hardly parking near the hotel convento in Old San Juan.

I suggest you go shopping now to PLAZA LAS AMERICAS. They claim is the biggest shopping in CCA. It is big. They have many USA brand stores. Ana will like to spend there a couple of hours. Say up to 4-5PM. Back to old SJ. Take a walking tour on your own. Take a QUE PASA guide from hotel and follow the route. Back in hotel and have a snack in EL PICOTEO in the side of hotel Convento.

Eating ????? What ??? Mexican, PR, International, Chinese, Indian, French, Italian, anything, you can find it in old SJ or near by. Prices??? ALLLL!!!!!

I suggest you have a beer or Pina Colada in Patio de Sam in front of Plaza San Jose. A beer in Nonos, another in El Batey (play a round of pool) . You can eat in AMADEUS or walk to top of Hotel Milano and eat in PANORAMA , or AjiliMojili in Condado area ( Ashford Ave.) Fine dining in AUGUSTOS (hotel excelsior) Fine food Barcelona type in MIRO in Condado . Al Dente in Old San Juan, Café Berlin, Il Perugino, La Chaumiere or ‘TROIS CENT ONZE”.  There are more than 100 bars and restaurants in Old San Juan alone.

Enjoy.

THIRD and LAST DAY !!!!!!

Up early, say before 900AM. Breakfast in LA BOMBONERA. Then check out and take road (toll) # 22 from SJ to ARECIBO (following Atlantic ocean north coast) Around 1 hour from SJ to Arecibo.  Passing in front of Arecibo take road 129 in direction of town of LARES. Much before this town of Lares, say 30 minutes from intersection of road 22 and 129, you will get to RIO CAMUY CAVE PARK. Call and check if open and ensure when last tour departs. Tel 898 3100. The tour will last around 2-3 hours. If you leave SJ around 10 you shall be in the RIO CAMUY CAVE PARK around 12-100PM. So you will be finish by 3:30PM.

Drive back road 129 in direction of Arecibo. Then take road 22 towards MAYAGUEZ. After last toll (still near Arecibo) the road is a common highway and is ROAD #2 . Follow this road 2 until you get to Mayaguez in around 2 hours. So you should be there before 6PM. Return the car, take a Taxi to the ferry which will commence boarding by 600PM but wont depart until 800PM. TAKE A CAMAROTE, an ANTIVERT, EAT and go to sleep.

Look forward to see you both in PR.

Tico


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