Wednesday, November 4, 2026

The Tragic Death of Victorino de Medeiros Aguiar


História, em verso, da morte trágica de
Victorino de Medeiros Aguiar
History, in verse, of the tragic death of
Victorino de Medeiros Aguiar
by Luiz de Medeiros Cabrinha
Livramento — December 1951
Portuguese original (left) and English translation (right), stanza by stanza
PORTUGUÊS (ORIGINAL)ENGLISH
1
Peço ajuda ao Senhor
Para contar este horror
Vou versar esta história
Com o coração comovido
Vou gravar o sucedido
Como tenho na memória
I ask the Lord for help
To tell this horror
I will put this story into verse
With a heart moved
I will set down what happened
As I hold it in memory
2
Pai e mãe que cria um filho
É sua luz é seu brilho
O amor do seu coração
Se, se piza um quase nada
Fica de alma magoada
Que fará morto então
A father and mother who raise a son
He is their light and their brightness
The love of their heart
If he is hurt by even the slightest thing
Their soul is left wounded
What will they do, then, with him dead?
3
Sinto um alarido um barulho
No dia trinta e um de Julho
Foi uma hora fatal
Mil novecentos cinquenta e um
Nunca me lembro nenhum
Desastre assim igual
I hear an outcry, a commotion
On the thirty-first of July
It was a fatal hour
Nineteen fifty-one
I never remember any
Disaster the equal of this
4
Tudo quero decifrar
Jesus me há-de ajudar
E eu lhe peço entendimento
O pai e a mãe são nascidos
Mais os seus filhos queridos
Naturais do Livramento
I want to make sense of everything
Jesus will help me
And I ask Him for understanding
The father and mother were born
Along with their beloved children
Natives of Livramento
5
Com treze anos de idade
Criança na mocidade
Foi ver a Sagrada Luz
Pois Deus lhe talhou a sorte
De morrer de terrível morte
E já lá está com Jesus
At thirteen years of age
A child in his youth
He went to see the Sacred Light
For God cut out his fate
To die a terrible death
And now he is there with Jesus
6
Ele com um tio trabalhava
Aonde gado guardava
E nisto se foi criando
O rapazito era esperto
Fazia tudo ao certo
Já o pai estava ajudando
He worked with an uncle
Where cattle were kept
And in this he grew up
The little boy was clever
He did everything right
He was already helping his father
7
Do gado sabia tratar
Estava um primo a ajudar
Soltou o gado foi á água
O boi atraz não deixou
Pela cabeça amarrado o levou
Que triste dia de mágua
He knew how to look after cattle
A cousin was there helping
He let the cattle loose, they went to the water
The ox would not leave him behind
Tied by the head, it carried him off
What a sad day of sorrow
8
As vacas água beberam
Eles um pouco se entreteram
No lago do Pico da Pedra
Um cigarro esteve fumando
A morte lhe estava chamando
Do perigo ninguém se arreda
The cows drank water
The boys lingered a little
At the lake of Pico da Pedra
He was smoking a cigarette
Death was calling him
No one steps aside from danger
9
Quando se foram embora
Naquela péssima hora
Tinha a corda em si amarrado
Para um fósforo riscar
Quando o boi estava a puchar
Na corda dois nóz tinha dado
When they went away
In that terrible hour
He had the rope tied around himself
To strike a match
When the ox was pulling
He had made two knots in the rope
10
O rapaz saiu para a rua
Sempre a andar continua
Com a corda em si amarrada
Na estrada um curvo dava
As vacas não se avistava
Nesta hora dezastrada
The boy went out onto the road
He keeps on walking
With the rope tied around him
The road made a bend
The cows could not be seen
In this ill-fated hour
11
Na corda o boi um puchão dava
Ele com as mãos segurava
Mas não conseguiu aguentar
O boi deitou a correr
Nesta hora sem aparecer
Ninguém naquele lugar
The ox gave a tug on the rope
He held on with his hands
But he could not hold out
The ox took off running
At this hour, with no one in sight
No one in that place
12
O rapaz não se aguentou então
Andou de rastos no chão
O boi ainda mais corria
O priminho a gritar e a correr
Mas não lhe pode valer
Naquela grande agonia
The boy then could not hold on
He was dragged along the ground
The ox ran even faster
The little cousin screaming and running
But he cannot help him
In that great agony
13
Coutadinho que triste sorte
Em que agonia que morte
Se viu nesta ocasião
Ele atraz do boi ficou
Quando a corda rebentou
Gasta de arrastar no chão
Poor little one, what a sad fate
In what agony, what a death
He found himself in on that occasion
He was left behind the ox
When the rope snapped
Worn through from dragging on the ground
14
O primo ao pé dele chegou
Neste momento o chamou
Victorino ainda gemia
Ali no chão estatalado
E todo ensanguentado
Que ninguém o conhecia
The cousin reached his side
At that moment called to him
Victorino was still groaning
There, sprawled on the ground
And covered in blood
So that no one would have known him
15
O rapazinho aflito
Dezata num choro num grito
Ao ver o primo a morrer
Achando-se ali sózinho
Nestas horas no caminho
Sem mais ninguém aparecer
The distressed little boy
Broke into crying, into screaming
Seeing his cousin dying
Finding himself alone there
At such an hour on the road
With no one else appearing
16
Dois homens trabalhando estavam
Bem ao longe apreciavam
Aquele choro tão sentido
Deitaram-se logo a correr
Para a rua a vir ver
O que tinha sucedido
Two men were working
Far off they noticed
That heartfelt crying
They set off running at once
To the road, to come and see
What had happened
17
Os homens chegaram primeiro
Mas também um cantoneiro
Apareceu de outro lado
Ele assim a dizer
Nunca me lembro de ver
Um caso tão desgraçado
The men arrived first
But a roadman also
Appeared from the other side
He said, just like this:
I never remember seeing
Such a wretched case
18
Pelo rapaz dizer mandaram
E os três homens lá ficaram
Logo passou um polícia
A criança a correr vai
Como fica a mãe e o pai
Ao saber esta notícia
They sent the boy to tell [the family]
And the three men stayed there
Soon a policeman came by
The child goes off running
How will the mother and father be
On learning this news
19
O polícia foi a correr
Para cumprir seu dever
No telefone foi falar
Porque assim o devia
Desceu ali á freguesia
Para a autoridade chamar
The policeman went running
To do his duty
To go and speak on the telephone
Because that was what he had to do
He went down there to the parish
To call the authorities
20
O morto ali jazia
E na cabeça se via
Um buraco como um punhão
Que até os miolos se soltou
Que o cantoneiro ajuntou
Espalhados pelo chão
The dead boy lay there
And on his head could be seen
A hole like a fist
So that even the brains came loose
Which the roadman gathered up
Scattered over the ground
21
O primo desatinado a correr
Para aos tios ir dizer
Sempre num choro sentido
Um homem lhe preguntava
Pelo que é que chorava
Se alguém lhe tinha batido
The cousin, frantic, running
To go and tell his aunt and uncle
Always in bitter crying
A man asked him
Why he was crying
If someone had hit him
22
Senhor ninguém me bateu
Foi meu primo que morreu
E disse como tinha sido
O rapaz ao homem contou
Tudo quanto se passou
E como foi sucedido
Sir, no one hit me
It was my cousin who died
And he said how it had been
The boy told the man
Everything that had happened
And how it came about
23
O homem o serviço deixou
Para o dito pasto foi
O gado esteve amarrando
E depois quando acabou
Por mais ninguém esperou
Para o tal sítio foi andando
The man left his work
To the said pasture he went
He was tying up the cattle
And afterwards, when he had finished
He waited for no one else
He went walking to that place
24
O rapaz a casa chegou
E á mãe assim contou
Tudo como sucedeu
Cansado veio à corrida
E diz ai titia querida
O Victorino já morreu
The boy arrived at the house
And told the mother like this
Everything as it happened
Tired, he came running
And says: oh dear auntie
Victorino has died
25
A pobre mãe coutadinha
Quase que ficou doudinha
Em pensar que está sózinho
Aquele seu querido filho
Que é sua luz o seu brilho
Saber que morreu no caminho
The poor mother, poor soul
Almost went out of her mind
Thinking that he is alone
That beloved son of hers
Who is her light, her brightness
To know he died on the road
Pranto de Mãe
A Mother’s Lament
26
Ai meu Deus ai meu Jesus
Em mim se encerra a negra Luz
Paciência que hei-de fazer
Ai filho filho querido
Não pensava teres morrido
Sem eu te poder valer
Oh my God, oh my Jesus
In me the black Light is shut in
Patience, what else can I do
Oh son, my beloved son
I never thought you would die
Without my being able to help you
27
Ai filho se eu soubesse
Ou se Jesus me dissesse
Que hoje a vida ias finar
Tu não morrias sózinho
Sem ter amor nem carinho
De tua mãe te poder beijar
Oh son, if I had known
Or if Jesus had told me
That today your life would end
You would not have died alone
Without love or tenderness
Without your mother being able to kiss you
28
Já não tenho mais prazer
Custa-me não te poder ver morrer
Filho minha luz querida
Se tu tivesses doente
Havia estar permanente
Pedindo a Jesus vida
I have no more pleasure
It pains me not to have been able to see you die
Son, my beloved light
If you had been ill
I would have been there constantly
Asking Jesus for life
29
Vais baixar à terra fria
Eu fico sem alegria
E sem ter felicidade
Mas também o teu triste pai
Em morte té buscar vai
De treze anos de idade
You will go down into the cold earth
I am left without joy
And without happiness
But your sad father too
Is going to fetch you, in death
At thirteen years of age
30
Lá foi o tio e o pai
E mais alguém dali vai
Ao saberem tal notícia
O triste pai ao lá chegar
Querendo o filho abraçar
Não teve ordem da polícia
There went the uncle and the father
And someone else from there goes
On learning such news
The sad father, on arriving there
Wanting to embrace his son
Had no permission from the police
31
Senhor guarda diga-me então
O motivo por que eu não
No meu filho posso tocar
Senhor que infelicidade
Primeiro a autoridade
Tudo tem que examinar
Mr. Officer, tell me then
The reason why I cannot
Touch my son
Lord, what misfortune
First the authorities
Must examine everything
32
Neste instante se fez tudo
Chegou o delegado de saúde
E o sub-chefe do estado
O doutor logo examinou
Está visto como se matou
Por sinal está amarrado
At that moment everything was done
The health officer arrived
And the deputy chief of the state
The doctor promptly examined him
It was plain to see how he came to be killed
Indeed, he is tied fast
33
O doutor diz levam-no já
Pois se sei não vinha cá
Num grande diligencia
Porque era um crime de morte
Mas nasceu com pouca sorte
O pai tenha paciencia
The doctor says take him away now
For if I’d known, I would not have come here
With such great haste
Because it was a crime of death
But he was born with little luck
Father, have patience
34
Ai filho desventurado
Como estais desfigurado
Paciencia triste sorte
Foi Jesus que te chamou
Não viste mais quem te criou
No dia da tua morte
Oh unfortunate son
How disfigured you are
Patience, sad fate
It was Jesus who called you
You did not see again those who raised you
On the day of your death
35
Nesta estrada tão comprida
Ninguém te salvou a vida
Meu Deus que aflição
Ninguém gritar te sentiu
Quando vieram acudir
Já môrto estavas no chão
On this road so long
No one saved your life
My God, what anguish
No one heard you cry out
When they came to help
You were already dead on the ground
36
Meu filho que agonia
Tu te viste neste dia
Deus te tem no paraíso
No estado que tu estás
Quando a casa chegares
É um dia de juízo
My son, what agony
You found yourself in on this day
God has you in paradise
In the state that you are in
When you reach home
It is a day of judgment
37
O pai dizia assim
Tão triste foi o teu fim
Filho minha luz querida
Pois eu por ti muito fiz
E foste tão infeliz
Bem criança já sem vida
The father said this:
So sad was your end
Son, my beloved light
For I did so much for you
And you were so unfortunate
Still a child, and already lifeless
38
O pai com o filho se abraçou
E num lençol o enrolou
Dizendo que triste fim
Na flôr da tua idade
Que grande infelicidade
Mas Deus é que quis assim
The father embraced his son
And wrapped him in a sheet
Saying, what a sad end
In the flower of your age
What great misfortune
But it is God who willed it so
39
Quando o filho a casa chegou
Tão aflita a mãe ficou
Quase que perdeu o sentido
Os tios dizem Jesus Senhor
Olhar para o morto era horror
Ver como estava ferido
When the son arrived home
The mother was so distraught
She almost lost her senses
The aunt and uncle say "Jesus, Lord"
To look at the dead boy was horror
To see how wounded he was
A Mãe em prantos
The Mother in Tears
40
Ai que cena feia e triste
Em que agonia te viste
Fico em negra escuridão
Ao lembrar-me este dia
Não tenho mais alegria
No mundo no coração
Oh what an ugly and sad scene
In what agony you found yourself
I am left in black darkness
When I remember this day
I have no more joy
In the world, in my heart
41
Querido filho adorado
Hoje vais ser sepultado
Minha luz minha doçura
Mais em meus olhos não reluz
Filho oxalá que Jesus
Achasse a tua alma pura
Dear, adored son
Today you will be buried
My light, my sweetness
No longer shines in my eyes
Son, I pray that Jesus
Will find your soul pure
42
Quando chegou o caixão
Pois tudo chorava então
A mãe num choro sentido
O padre veio no mesmo instante
A mãe diz querida luz brilhante
Adeus, adeus filho querido
When the coffin arrived
Everyone was weeping then
The mother in heartfelt tears
The priest came at that same moment
The mother says: dear shining light
Farewell, farewell, beloved son
43
Adeus luz do meu olhar
Jesus para si te quis chamar
Para o eterno paraíso
Ai! Filho eu fico sem tino
Adeus querido Vitorino
Até ao dia do Juízo
Farewell, light of my eyes
Jesus wanted to call you to Himself
To eternal paradise
Oh son, I am left out of my wits
Farewell, dear Vitorino
Until the day of Judgment
44
Ai! Mundo mundo de enganos
São todos do mesmo pano
Ningém sabe o seu acabar
Por Deus está destinado
De pó o homem foi formado
E em pó se há-de tornar
Oh world, world of deceit
All are cut from the same cloth
No one knows how theirs will end
It is destined by God
From dust man was formed
And to dust he shall return
45
O mundo é jardim de flores
Peço desculpa aos senhores
Se notam algum defeito
O versista que isto versou
Diz que Deus é que nunca errou
E é quem faz tudo bem feito
The world is a garden of flowers
I beg your pardon, ladies and gentlemen
If you notice any flaw
The versifier who wrote this in verse
Says that it is God who never erred
And who does everything well
Livramento, Dezembro de 1951
LUIZ DE MEDEIROS CABRINHA

Notes from Kris

This poem by Ana’s grandfather Luiz de Medeiros Cabrinha was written in 1951 in a folk style very popular across the Portuguese world, used to commemorate local tragedies, and often distributed as pamphlets. These served as news, memorials, and communal memories all at once. I found the poet’s apology in the final stanza, and his expression of humility a little odd, but then I leaned this was a convention of that poetic tradition. There is also limited use of metaphors; it is written flatly and honestly, more as testament to the tragedy, like a witness statement, and it is also written in very plain Portuguese, which gives it so much force. A rhyming pattern is maintained in each stanza, with the first two lines rhyming, the fourth and fifth, then the third and sixth. The English translation does not attempt to follow this rhyming pattern.

Azores 2026 - A Final Walk and Thoughts On The Trip


I awoke early and lay there for a while wondering what to do. We didn’t have to leave for the airport until noon so there was time for something. I thought of trying for another swim. I considered a neighbourhood walk. The prospect of a hot beverage and some writing held some appeal. But there was one thing left on our list we’d hoped to do - a walk along the Lagoa oceanfront trail, which we had discovered during our last trip, and I had thought about many times since then.

Ana decided to pass, so I drove a whole five minutes to the start of the trail, which is at the restaurant Ondas do Mar. It was a beautiful morning, overcast but warm, and almost no wind. The trail is not long, maybe a kilometres or two, but it is a good one to take slow and absorb the surroundings: the pitted and black basaltic volcanic rock, the gorgeous natural ocean pools, the vegetation crawling across the ground, the sundial, the ocean vistas, but also the man-made phenoms facing landward – a large animal feed factory and towering grain silos, an urban farm field leaking farm smells, perfectly sculpted volcanic rock walls, the rocky backyards of homes backing onto the trail.

I took my time and savoured every step as I considered our visit.


These last two trips here have felt much more like slices of living in the Azores than vacations. We have gotten to know the family here much better and spend a lot of time with them doing family things. There have been the administrative tasks, then this time a funeral, not things you are usually required to do on vacations. We’ve also avoided as much of the tourist stuff as possible (except for the caves this time).

We have now been visiting the Azores together for over 25 years. I can’t even remember how many trips we’ve made during this time, maybe 7 or 8? During the first trips we were overwhelmed with everything we saw. The one big question we had was, “Where are all the tourists?” It just had so much to offer and the only visitors were expatriated Azoreans returning home to see their families. There wasn’t a single American chain restaurant on Sao Miguel the first time we came. I felt like I’d discovered a lost world. And I still don’t believe the Azoreans really knew what they had back then. But I think they probably do now.


What’s changed on Sao Miguel? Well, for starters, there are way more cars on the island. This was particularly evident this trip. Every street is jammed with parked cars. Streets that used to be clear or maybe had a car or two are now packed from top to bottom. Cars park on every available space from boulevards to vacant lots to sidewalks, sometimes making a street impassable to anything but the smallest vehicles. Tio Manuel’s neighbour has five people living in the house and five vehicles. Many other households are like this too. I don’t know how this can go on, and I suspect it won’t be long before the government has to put some tough policies in place to slow the growth as it is not sustainable. But it does seem to be a clear sign that people here are generally doing well, at least financially. The other bizarre thing is they are overwhelmingly gas cars. This is on an island powered by clean geothermal electricity. Something has gone terribly wrong with government policy. I always imagined the government here would someday outlaw gas passenger vehicles. But then cousin Tiago told us that it is illegal to leave a power cord on the sidewalk connecting your vehicle to your home. But since the vast majority of people do not have garages and use public street parking, how are they supposed to charge their vehicles? It is a messy situation.

Another change is the prices. Prices are generally higher than they were before (like everywhere) and it is no longer a cheap place to visit. Saying that, there are spectacular deals on a few things; namely cheese, beer, wine, bananas, some vegetables, and bread. Meat, fish, and most vegetables are about the same as home. Gas and clothes are way more, as is the dollar store type stuff and specialty items. The cost of housing has rocketed up, like pretty much every other developed country in the world.


Finally, there used to be derelict houses all over the island and beaten-up buildings, and many signs of poverty. You see very little of this now – another sign that things have improved…at least for some or hopefully most people.

What hasn’t changed is that our family considers it a difficult place to make ends meet. Everybody here has to work hard and they don’t earn a lot of money. But yet, I think most folks here have not traveled much, so really don’t know what it’s like living in other places. In fact, Ana’s cousin Carmelia who works at the university, recently asked a class of 40 how many of them had ever left the island. One person raised their hand. I think the locals see the tourists arriving here with money falling out of their pockets, and members of their families who emigrated to the US or Canada decades ago returning with money to spend (but possibly returning home broke…). It’s easy to get the wrong impression and assume the money comes easy everywhere else. I don’t think that’s the case. It seems to me there are as many opportunities in the Azores as there is anywhere else…maybe more. The opportunities for enrichment are here, but you can also choose to take a traditional job, live modestly, and have a pretty damn good life, going to the beach when you want, never having to shovel snow, sleeping with your windows open, breathing clean air, eating natural and locally grown food, drinking great water from your kitchen tap, and having access to decent public health care and schools.

Would we ever live here? Probably not, at least not permanently. But I see us continuing to spend time here, and probably longer stretches when we eventually wind down our work careers. My most compelling dream is to sail our boat here one spring and spend the entire summer in Sao Miguel, as well as exploring the other eight islands of the Azores, five of which we have never been to.

I thought about all this and more as I walked.


And now as I try to capture these thoughts in words, I also consider what I would like to do here on future visits. It’s good to make notes for Future Kris and Future Ana to read next time they are planning a trip.

Here are a few ideas:

  • Get close up to one of the geothermal power plants on the island
  • Get a tour of the Salcicor meat factory in Feteiras
  • See how the mobile milking operation works for the cows grazing at the tops of the volcano craters
  • Spend some time with the craftsman building the volcanic stone walls
  • Do more scuba diving (I’ve only been once, many years ago)
  • Go to a play or art or cultural event
  • Visit in the summer to do snorkelling along the coastlines
  • Do many more of the official trail walks (there are 30 of them)

Azores 2026 - The Window to Hell


Yesterday’s merrymaking was of such ferocity that Ana and I decided we needed to do a morning trail walk. I had my heart set on the Janela do Inferno (Window to Hell) trail, as it sounded so metal and wicked. By the end, it was a nearly three-hour affair, through eight kilometres of such a variety of landscapes it was hard to believe. It began with a long, slowly then rapidly ascending walk along grassy and serene meadow roads and trails with magnificent vistas over the ocean and the city of Ponta Delgada and hussies of cows to the left and right. The trail markers led us across a bridge over a dry river, then a narrow but deep valley up and down steep staircases, then into a 100-metre-long dark concrete tunnel that required crouching walking and had half a foot of muck and water in some spots, which put Ana in a dark mood indeed after we emerged and the natural light exposed the filthy condition of her favourite white fashion sneakers. In fact, I took a look into her eyes and I think I saw a window into hell, so maybe that’s where they got the name.


From here we entered a forest with a few more tunnels and a huge, ancient aqueduct. The midpoint of the forest trail was the actual window into hell, which was simply a big hole in a cliff from which water spouted and, surprisingly, there seemed to be a series of water collection systems pipes that, I assume, that formed part of the municipal water collection system. The path eventually exited the forest and we were back into grassy meadows and cows, then after a while ended up on a steep downhill road, then an equally steep path that was muddy, washed out, and rather grown in, suggesting we had lost our way, but then it emerged in the town of Remedios, where we found trail markers and scrambled up and down some steep streets, then popped out right where we had parked the car at the trailhead. The good news is Ana was able to clean her shoes back at Tio Manuel’s house, bringing them and her mood back to pristine condition. I checked her eyes again and the regular window into sweet heaven had returned.


Tio Luis and Geneveva stopped in for a visit as we hoovered up some of the many leftovers for lunch. Sadly, they were unable to make the party the previous day, but they were probably still cleaning up their house after the smashing party they hosted the weekend before.


Ana had a few things to do so I found a bit of time to sneak out to the beach. I had my goggles and had hoped the ocean had flattened with the low winds so I could explore the underwater world. But it was rougher than I expected, and I was the only person on the entire beach. I walked in up to my knees, then had a flash of a rip current pulling me out to sea, or a wave rolling me over, or some other unfortunate accident, and got completely spooked. Strange, I can’t ever remember me making such a mature decision concerning the prospect of a glorious, but risky, ocean swim. Am I growing up? I hope not.


After I returned and got cleaned up, we realized we had a bit of time before yet another scheduled evening event. So Ana and I went first to Tia Ana’s local church where Ana magnificently worked through some funeral and will administration with the priest, then we drove to the town of Caloura, which is home to one of our favourite watering holes on the island, and enjoyed a plate of mussels and a drink to the sound of the ocean waves crashing into the volcanic rocks, right below the restaurant deck.

After picking up Ana’s folks we drove to Ana Margarida’s house for the final evening meal and final event of our trip. I thought maybe it was going to be a memorial sort of thing for Tia Ana, but it was just a nice meal together with various members of her family, and such a kind gesture from a remarkable lady who took care of Ana’s aunt right to the very end and beyond.


We returned to base camp sometime after 10:30 and found Natercia there waiting for us. There is nobody, and I mean nobody I have ever met who has as much energy as Natercia. Sadly, I was demolished and said a quick hello and goodbye then retired upstairs, leaving Ana and her folks to finish up the evening.

Tomorrow, we return to Canada.

Azores 2026 - Dinner for Breakfast and a Sunday Extravaganza


Our original plan to visit Restaurant Faria in Ribeira Grand for the Sunday morning rise and shiner dinner for breakfast, but the owner was on holidays so they were temporarily closed. That was a real bummer as our breakfasts here had become one of the highlights of recent trips. Imagine arriving at a slightly skudgy Portuguese café restaurant at 7am, being promptly served a large metal pitcher of red wine, baskets of fresh bread, then told the day’s meal options include octopus stew, beef stew, potato and chorizo soup, fried rabbit, fried fish. There is no menu. There are no prices. One time we went there with a crew of twelve and to make space for us, the owner kicked out two local dudes who were taking up a four-person table. They just had to find someplace else to sit. The wine pitchers are instantly refilled when they run empty, as are the bread baskets. You can wipe your mouth and fingers on the tablecloth. About two thirds of the way into your meal you realize two things. First, you are getting rapidly wasted on red wine on Sunday morning. Second, you’ve misunderstood breakfast your entire life.


Well, cousin Paul Fernando, as usual, delivered. He told me to be at his house at 6:30 am and we’d be going to a similar restaurant, but in Porto Formoso. Nobody else on my team wanted to go, so it was just Paul, Natercia, and me. In twenty minutes (a very, very, very long ways to travel for breakfast for typical Sao Migueleans), we arrived at Silenco Das Palavras, which Paul Fernando pronounced to me very solemnly as we entered.

“Silence of the Words?” I asked.

“Silence of the Words.”

I thought about it for a second.

“What does it mean?”

“I have no idea.”

It didn’t matter. Of course Paul and Natercia knew most of the people there, including the server, and he quickly seated us at a long table then brought out a big jug of red wine. The venue was smaller than Restaurant Faria, but nicer, and very cozy. Paul Fernando had warned me earlier that this place only served soup, like that was going to make any difference to my enthusiasm for a winey Azorean breakfast. The soup was served in steel bowls, and was mostly broth, collards, potatoes, carrots, and other floating substances which were difficult to identify, but  worked together to produce a formidable and delicious soup. As I was into a few spoonfuls, the server returned with a plate for each of us that contained the reason for the deliciousness of the broth – boiled meats. There were ribs, pigs feet, and shingles of beef. I did an autopsy on the pigs feet with my fork, teasing out as much flesh as I could and tossing it into my soup. I can confirm that pigs have a hell of a lot more meat on their asses than in their feet. I did the same with the beef and ribs, sucked the bones, then gobbled up the rest of the soup, with the help of the fresh bread as sponges.


We had a lovely meal together, and it was only ruined when Paul Fernando said he had to take a leak then snuck away and paid the bill. I will have my revenge.


Before driving back, we stopped at the port area and then beach area of Porto Formoso. I had never been here before and it was lovely, especially the beach which was devoid of humans and being punished by the large boiling waves crashing into the black sand, crafting a different beach. We stopped at their favourite café/gas station on the way back and enjoyed espressos and a pastel de nata. Yes, it is possible to get fantastic coffee, not to mention fancy liquors, gifts, and baked goods at a gas station.


Once back at base camp, the cousins started arriving and all flew into action, as today was the John and Maria Borges sponsored family home picnic. A lot of things started to happen. A raging wood fire was started in the brick oven. Squash and apples were skinned and cubed, other squash were halved, buttered, sugared, and doused with port wine. Potatoes peeled and boiled, onions fried. Coleslaw made. Trays of natas, pumpkin pie, rice pudding, Halloween monster cookies, and cakes were brought in from vehicle trunks. Tables were assembled, clothed, chaired, and set. Music was queued. Yams were foiled and fired, as were the squash apple casseroles. Mini-chorizos were bbq’d. Buns were sliced. Trays of cooked chickens and fried fish were purchased. Wine bottles were uncorked. Beers were opened. Juice was poured.


It was a magnificent affair. Everybody came. It lasted all day and into the night. An Azorean family jamboree. A jantarian extravaganza. Uma festa do comida e bebidas e amor.

Best, none of the Borges/Olson contingent had the requirement to report to work the next day.