When you
visit the Azores you have to realize it’s not going to be like home, no matter
where you are from (except maybe Madeira). Most of the differences will be
interesting and cool, but some could be dangerous. Let me explain.
The roads in
Sao Miguel were originally built for horses, buggies, and maybe cows. They were
not built for transport trucks, Ford F150’s towing a powerboat, 40-foot long
motorhomes, or giant garbage trucks. They are narrow. And in some cases, barely
passable, therefore the vehicles that people drive are very small. I saw a
Toyota Yaris the other day and it looked large compared to all the standard
European makes that you see - Peugeots, Renaults, Volkswagens, and Opels; most
of them tiny four door hatchbacks that you and your buddy could probably flip
over like a turtle.
Now imagine
a small car having trouble fitting down a street, and then imagine that you are
also walking down that same street at the same time. There is not much room.
Which leads to the first rule of safety in the Azores:
1.
Walk,
don’t mosey
By mosey, I
mean walking around sloppily, wandering from side to side, staggering here and
there, and basically not paying attention to what you are doing. If you do this
at the wrong place at the wrong time, you will get smoked by or, worse, slowly
smeared against an ancient rock wall by a car. Kids are the worst, because the
path they take when moving looks like a stock market chart - a random walk and
totally unpredictable. If you don’t want them ending up as a hood ornament, or
a greasy stain on somebody’s front door, then get them to walk in a straight
line, or tie a leash to them, whichever best fits your parenting technique.
2. Pay
attention
People here
drive fast, and they are exceptionally good drivers, but man, do they fly down
the roads in those tiny cars. You simply must pay attention to what’s going on
when you are walking near a street, or even walking out of somebody’s house.
Many of the narrow streets have no sidewalks, so you can take one step out of
your aunt’s door and WHACK, you are creamed by a car. You will notice that when
people park, they always fold in the side mirrors on their cars to avoid them
being knocked off. Don’t be a side mirror.
3. Don’t
fall into calderas
Remember
those calderas - the cauldron-like holes in the ground full of hotter than
boiling water, found primary in Furnas? Don’t fall into them. The folks here
told us about a tourist that died many years back when they were backing up,
trying to take a perfect photo, and they tripped into a caldera and were boiled
alive. Since then they have constructed a fenced path that you are supposed to
stick to, so stick to it.
4. Don’t
expect safety devices to save you from stupidity
In North
America we like to try and save people from themselves by putting up Danger
signs everywhere, erecting fencing, forcing you sign waivers, building
guardrails everywhere, and trying in every feasible way to make things idiot-proof.
They don’t do that here. When you are in a tobacco museum that has a big
machine with sharp blades on display, they assume you are not so stupid as to
stick your hand into it. There is no sign saying “Don’t stick your hand in here”
because it’s so obvious. When you go for a hike on a trail into a volcano
crater with steep sides, you shouldn’t need a sign telling you to be careful,
so there won’t be one; you just know to be careful. Pretty obvious huh?
5. Beware
the ocean
I didn’t
even see an ocean until I was 13 and didn’t swim in one until many years after
that. The ocean is dangerous. It is not like a lake. There are jellyfish to
sting you, sea urchins to step on, tides to strand you or wash away you stuff,
and rip currents to suck you out to sea. I’m not even going to mention the
sharks, because that’s the least you need to worry about in the ocean. I swim
in the ocean everywhere we go, so you don’t have to be scared, but just know
what to expect and use your head. Don’t swim alone. If you get caught in a rip
current and start getting dragged out to see, swim parallel to the shore until
it lets up. Check the shoreline for washed up jellyfish. Watch where you step.
And never, ever swim alone at night - that is just asking for trouble, because
if you are swimming at night you are probably wasted.
Well now
that I got that out of my system, let me talk about today.
Ana’s 15-year-old
niece Bella was off school this week and decided to spend the day with us. We
didn’t have any big plans, and the weather was cool and windy so we decided to
find some indoor activities to do.
The last
time we were in Sao Miguel, Bella was a cute little 9-year-old girl, so my
mental image of her was pretty much stuck at that point in time. When we
arrived, I was shocked to find a 15-year-old young woman, all grown up,
beautiful, and in high school. More intriguing was that her older sister Sofia
(also beautiful) had given birth to a gorgeous little girl Matilda, who was
already two years old. Both are lovely young women and I think knew a lot more
English than they were letting on but were just a little shy to speak it with
us.
We first
visited a nearby ceramics factory, which was cool in a “hanging out with
grandma” kind of way, and we then went downtown to the natural history museum
and ran into Tiago, who works there and is the boyfriend of Bella’s sister
Sofia. He showed us around the museum, which was full of specimens of local
fish, game and plants, and many international ones too, such as a Great White
Shark and a Two Headed Sheep. He also had a small bird that had hair just like
Donald Trump, which was currently the hottest exhibit in the gallery…or at
least was getting the most laughs.
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