Wake up, make a coffee, do some writing, eat some
breakfast and we’re off on a day trip.
We drove up the winding roads of Lagoa du Fogo which is a thousand foot
volcano with an amazing crater lake at the top which you are rarely able to see
because of the frequently low hanging clouds.
As in past years, we reach the top and have a visibility of about 50
feet, so in order to avoid child disappointment, I tell the kids to stick their
hand out the window and grab a handful of cloud, as we are right in the middle
of a gigantic one. They don’t believe it
is actually a cloud until we’ve made our descent and look back up the mountain
to see the thick cover.
Near the bottom, we pull into a parking area and start
the short hike to Caldeira Velha, a popular site which we had yet to visit, and
we are not disappointed. The well
groomed trail leads us through lush tropical vegetation, and a trickling stream
of water on the right hand side. We
approach a big sign which says, in four different languages, “Danger, natural
boiling water”, beyond which is a bubbling pond with sulphuric steam burping
out. A short distance beyond here is the
main attraction, a naturally warm waterfall spilling into a beautifully
tranquil swimming area. There are six or
seven people there when we arrive, and only two of them in the water, so we get
our swimsuits on and jump in. The water
at the edge is cool, but the closer to the waterfall you get, the warmer the
water is, and as you move into the waterfall itself, you realize this is where
all the heat is coming from. The hot
water massage is amazing!
We stay in the water for twenty minutes then decide to
pack up and move on. As we’re getting
ready to leave, an entire tour group of Germans and Danes arrive and the area
and pool is now full of people, so we thank our fortunate timing and hike back
to the car.
From here, we continue heading north east, passing one of
the main geothermal power plants (which produces nearly half the electricity on
the island), then we reach the north coast, just east of Ribeira Grand, the
second largest town on the island.
Driving east, we pass two tea plantations, which are the only ones which
exist in Europe, then continue driving along the excellent roadways all the way
to the town of Furnas, which is the most geothermically active part of the
island. As we’ve explored Furnas
extensively in the past, we pass through town and drive to the town of Povocao,
which is one of our favourite places on the island. It is a small, self contained village in a
valley bordered by hills on all sides except the south, which is the
ocean. The streets and walkways are all
cobblestone and decorated with elaborate patterns, using combinations of white
and black stones.
After a delicious lunch, we walk over to the small zoo
which is located in the center of the town which is always open and free to the
public. It is a lovely little spot and
has many birds, monkeys, rabbits, guinea pigs and a big peacock who just loves
to show off his feathers. After the zoo,
Ana and Stella do some shopping while Magnus and I kick around a soccer ball he
bought in town, which helped to burn off a bit of the massive lunch I consumed.
We jumped back in the car, turned west and started
heading towards home, but we had one more stop to make – Ribeira Quente, which
means “hot river”. This is another
coastal town, and one which we have never visited before. The road there was gorgeous, hydrangeas on
both sides of the road, many roadside stops with picnic tables, grills and
shade trees and many views to the river flowing in the valley below. The town itself was nice and featured a large
fishing port and a beautiful, big beach area, which was “under construction” as
the hillside had given way and a house had been lost so they are doing a six
month project to reinforce the area and prevent future collapses. We had a coffee in a restaurant overlooking
the beach, then got back on our way and were soon back at tia Ana’s. John and Maria joined us for a dinner of
fresh tuna then we played some soccer in the backyard. To finish off the night, we played a game of
Portuguese Scrabble with the kids (plenty of English words thrown in too) and
that was it for the day.