Alligator River to Chesapeake, Virginia – 62 nautical miles sailed, 3 kilometres walked
I had strange dreams last night. We had anchored in a huge debris field of destroyed boats and docks, as if the area had been bombed and SeaLight was being struck all night by floating debris. I think this was brought on by the rolly anchorage that kept the boat swaying and rocking all night with the accompanying mast noises. It wasn’t the greatest anchorage, but was sufficient.
We departed at 6:30 am and after nearly 11 hours on the water with favourable winds, we’d covered 62 miles and made it to the town of Chesapeake, Virginia – a place we made a brief and chaotic stop at on the way down, but did not get a chance to explore. Chesapeake has two free docks for cruisers and the chances of getting a spot was not good as the first dock was full, there were two sailboats ahead of us, and the second dock on the other side of the lift bridge looked to have limited space. Well, luck was on our side this time, and we managed to snuggle into a space on the second dock with the help of a small army of Quebecers catching our lines and helping us tie up. It was such a relief to be here and we realized this was the first time we’d tied up at a dock for the night (not been at anchor or on a mooring ball) since Hilton Head, for Ana’s birthday, about five months ago. We were looking forward to a very peaceful night.
The day had warmed up beautifully and by 6:00 pm it was still in the mid 20’s so we went for a walk to have an initial look at Chesapeake. After passing through a lovely, quiet neighbourhood of hundred-year-old pine trees and classy houses on massive lots, we (Ana) was drawn to the city sounds coming from the east and soon she had zero’d us in on a dollar store in a huge strip mall. While she ambled in the comforting atmosphere of Asian plastic, me and my liberally mixed rum and coke went for a walk around the place to photograph places we liked and places we didn’t. It was a sort of art project and the end result of too many hours stuck behind a boat wheel humming old random radio commercials to myself. Here are our reviews.
Coin Laundry – five stars. Finding a laundromat within walking distance of one’s boat is like pulling up a panful of gold prospecting in Alaska. I went in to check out the place and found it sparkling clean. A big guy sitting at the front gave me the sales pitch and I promised to return tomorrow with our soiled clothes. I think he wanted to visit more, but this was only the first feature of my art project and I had many more to go.
Little Caesars – four stars. My buddy Pete owns a Little Caesars franchise in Woodstock, Ontario. One cold and miserable January Saturday a few years back, Ana and I had nothing to do so we went for a drive to Woodstock and I stopped at Pete’s pizza shop to say hello after dropping Ana at the Goodwill. I took coffee orders from all the staff and went over Timmy’s to hook them up, and by the time I got back, Pete had crafted two custom pizzas for me. I drove over to the Goodwill parking lot to wait for Ana, with steam building on the windows from the hot pizza fog, and a slurry of half frozen rain splashing from the skies. I cracked into those pies and let me tell you, it may be the most delicious pizza I have ever eaten. After my art project was complete Ana and I returned here for a Three Meat Treat, and it was amazing…but could never be as good as Pete’s Custom Pie.
Panera Bread – four stars. Where was it now, maybe Vero Beach where we first went to a Panera Bread? They serve a chili in a bowl made entirely from sourdough bread, with a couple slabs of bread on the side and a dish of butter. It’s a delicious, glutenous extravaganza. We’re coming here for lunch tomorrow.
Tobacco and Vape – three stars. I don’t care for the vapes or hookah, but I sure like picking up little fingerling cigars once in a while. If you look closely at the sign, you’ll see they also sell Kratom. I have no idea what that is but I might stop by later to check it out.
ABC Liquors – five stars. Alcohol is a critical supply for the boat as it fuels sundowners and radical adventures. You are never far from a liquor store in the US. They all get five stars, especially the ones located right beside gun shops. It’s especially fun drinking a rum and coke just outside the liquor store.
Taste of China – four stars. Look, we’re not going for Chinese food. I eat Chinese food once every two years, and it’s always with our friend Lydia. She is Chinese-Malaysian and you’ve never met anybody who devours Chinese food like her. One time we were in Rochester, New York on our boats and Lydia called in an order at the local Chinese restaurant. It went something like this.
Lydia: I’d like an order of Peking duck, Singapore noodles, chow mein, ginger chicken, some chicken balls, deep fried shrimp, hot and sour soup, egg rolls, beef and broccoli, and a double order of spring rolls. Did you get all that?
Chinese Restaurant Cook/Server/Hostess/Administrator: Yes ma’am, I got it. Anything else?
Lydia, as she cups the phone and turns to the rest of us: Hey, do you guys want anything?
So this Chinese restaurant gets four stars just because I get so much joy in thinking about Lydia enjoying the food.
Chiropractic Clinic – one star. I have no use for these places, and neither does my rum and coke. After a lifetime of major back issues, a few years ago I finally figured out what was causing it. Too much exercise. So I’ve cut back on squats, good mornings, and rowing machines, then left my job and sailed to the Bahamas and I feel so much better.
Kroger – three stars. Cruisers need groceries and any food store within walking distance fits the bill. Saying that, I have a feeling Kroger is one of the more expensive ones, and there’s no Aldi anywhere close so we’ll have to make it work. But that’s a job for tomorrow.
Bank of America – three stars. While traveling through the US, you need US cash, and everything withdrawal from a Canadian based account is a horrifying experience after getting smoked with a five dollar ATM transaction fee then seeing the desperately poor exchange rate as it pulverizes your Remaining Balance. However, there is no such thing as a deals on ATMS so any functioning machine is just as good as the next.
7-11 – three stars. Me and my rum and coke are just glad there’s a few 7-11’s left. When you’re hankering for a strawberry Slurpee, there’s simply no substitute.
Battlefield Shoe Repair – one star. Totally unnecessary as cruising vessels are all provisioned for onboard shoe repairs with plenty of 3M 5200 space age permanent adhesive, utility knives to carve off the squirty excess, and blue shop towels to clean up any remaining mess, which sometimes lands on delicate throw cushions and plush cockpit decking. I could probably construct a complete pair of shoes out of 5200, rope, Velcro, snaps, and pineapple juice bottles, and they’d come out looking just fine and be super comfortable.
Knick-knack Shop – zero stars. There is no need for going into a knick knack shop while cruising. Space is at a premium. Money is tight. Function is king. Leave the embroidered doilies and ceramic ducks for the house.
Bayfield Pet Hospital – one star. Many cruisers have dogs on board, so this store might be important for some, but not us. The only pet we had onboard was Princess Concharella and her condition was decidedly terminal after I cruelly separated her from her beautiful shell. I’m not even sure if they’d be able to do much if you brought in a raw conch in a bucket, besides chop it up for a delicious conch salad.
Esso Gas Station – four stars. Besides rum, the next most important liquids on a cruising vessel are diesel and gasoline. If it has been a Shell station I’d have given it five stars because of my previous work history with that fine company. But my uncle Gerry worked for Esso his whole life and he's my hero so Esso gets four stars.
After my art project and Ana’s shopping we went to Little Caesar’s for a fast dinner. I got two compliments on my Misfits tshirt. The clerk had a look at me, then my shirt, then my rum and coke, then told Ana I looked like a misfit, just like her husband. As we waited at a table for our pizza a lady came in with her two kids, looked at me, and simply said, “I like your shirt.” I’m so happy I bought that shirt.
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